Earlier this week, the cover we had all been patiently waiting for had been revealed; American Vogue’s iconic September issue featuring an ever-regal Beyoncé draped in a ruffled, white Gucci dress, adorned with a floral headdress by Rebel Rebel. Shot by 23 year old Tyler Mitchell, it is the first cover in American Vogue’s 126-year history to be snapped by a black photographer. On the demand side, the September issue is the most influential issue of the year, being a respected testament of contemporary style for the coming months. On the supply side, it plays an integral role in a publication’s strategy and is a topic of discussion for any advertiser - a single page September print ad can run for $208,000.While the September issue has continuously generated excess buzz -recent September covers have included Jennifer Lawrence and Kendall Jenner- this year has generated even more hype running up to it’s release later this month, due to swirling rumours that Beyoncé had autonomous control over the cover, the photos of herself within the magazine as well as the captions, which she had written in long-form. While that is not the case - the result has been labeled a collaboration between Vogue and Beyoncé’s creative entourage - this issue is indeed exceptional because for one, it marks the much needed turning point towards inclusivity and secondly, it represents the pinnacle of celebrity power in fashion. In this September issue, the celebrity no longer plays a passive role of simply being shot; she and the once dominant editor are considered equals in terms of controlling creative direction.What does this say about the state of journalism? Times are a changin’.
Crossing the pond, British Vogue’s September issue features an also flower crowned Rihanna, styled by editor in chief Edward Enninful and shot by Nick Knight, who together successfully resurrected techno maximalist punk euphoria. Beyoncé and Rihanna, arguably two of the most important musicians of our age, proved the power of image.Fashion and music go hand in hand, an intertwined marriage of multi-sensory expression - and when successful- can capture a trend which runs deep within society and ultimately immortalise a collective and/or individual identity. The ability to construct a unique identity has led to the creation of legend- take David Bowie’s Kansai Yamamoto’s jumpsuit, Elvis’s white flared trousers, Madonna’s Gaultier cone bra. Fashion helps bring both music and the artist to life. As Rihanna puts it, “as an artist in this day and age, everything is driven by some kind of visual aspect” - that visual aspect needs to have meaning in order to stand out.In contemporary culture, I don’t think any musician is better than crafting her image than Beyoncé, which is why her role at Vogue was so appropriate. Think back only to her visual album Lemonade where she dawned a wide assortment of looks - most notably the mustard yellow Roberto Cavalli dress. Or more recently, the wardrobe on her current “On the Run II” tour where she has worn an astounding list of brands including Balmain, Burberry, Givenchy, Gucci, LaQuan Smith, Michael Schmidt Studios, Mugler, Ottolinger, Peter Dundas, Rami Kadi, Tom Ford, Valentino Couture and Vex Clothing along with so many others. She touches upon all terrains in the vast fashion landscape, careful never to be shoved into a single genre - she morphs meaning into a brand and is thus an ambassador to no one apart from herself.
Could (should?) we learn something from Beyoncé’s image making?Fashion caters to her, rather than vice-versa.I think we should all take this approach - the only brand you should stay loyal to is your own brand. The symbolic interactionist, Herbert Blumer (1969) argued that fashion plays a dominant role within all societies, mentioning that one of its key features is to train individuals for the immediate future, thus handing consumers control over their own circumstances. Fashion gives music artists and shower-singers alike the autonomous privilege to help define themselves; a straightforward opportunity to create personal meaning on a daily basis. Is being in control of one’s image a key ingredient to landing a sought after dream job? To chart-topping hits?
To being comfortable in one’s own skin? It’s not about being #onbrand, its about knowing yourself.Whether it’s grasping the power to edit the world’s most iconic magazine, curating an image for your latest world tour, or starting your first day of freshman year at college - be audacious enough to wear a perspective. No matter what one chooses to wear, fashion lends meaning. Make it count and hold the confidence to be you.Be bold. Be Beyoncé.