Virgil Abloh takes charge at "Louis Vuitton"

LVMH has appointed Virgil Abloh as artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear with immediate effect where his first show for the maison will take place in June during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. After months of speculation (ever since the collaboration between Supreme x Louis Vuitton), it is a huge move in the industry - completing the merger between streetwear with luxury, and hype with longstanding tradition. A disruption to the establishment. The American designer behind the streetwear label Off-White succeeds Kim Jones, who recently left the role to join Dior Homme, replacing Kris Van Assche.

Louis Vuitton’s Chairman and CEO Micheal Burke stated: “Having followed with great interest Virgil’s ascent since he worked with me at Fendi in 2006, I am thrilled to see how his innate creativity and disruptive approach have made him so relevant, not just in the world of fashion but in popular culture today.”

“It is an honor for me to accept the position of men’s artistic director for Louis Vuitton. I find the heritage and creative integrity of the house are key inspirations and will look to reference them both while drawing parallels to modern times,” says Abloh (37).

As well as having earned a degree in Civil Engineering and a Master's in Architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology, Abloh is additionally an artist, DJ, creative director, designer and uber-collaborator, having for example worked as Kanye West’s right-hand man overseeing multiple projects including stage shows and concert merchandise. Abloh’s brand Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™️ was launched in 2012 as an artwork titled “PYREX VISION”, then known for screen-printed logos onto Champion t-shirts and dead stock from known designers including Ralph Lauren.

Since 2015, Off-White has presented seasonal men’s and women’s runway collections during Paris Fashion Week where the brand has led the charge in combining luxury with streetwear. The Off-White aesthetic stems from a range of influences, often combining sportswear references and performance fabrics, bold logos and graphics, and industrial details, including heavy-duty workwear straps. Made popular due to the dominance of “candid” street-style photos and a fanbase including supermodels Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid, Off-White has gained a whopping 3.1m followers on Instagram and is hailed as one of the fastest-growing brands at retail.

Despite not having any formal training in fashion design, Abloh has mastered the art of “hype” and smart communication - designing for an Instagram generation where image is everything. While as a designer he does not bring originality, he has the expert ability to re-contextualise any innovation in any cultural field, which has sparked smash hit collaborations with the likes of Ikea, Jimmy Choo or Nike. What distinguishes his work from a sea of others? Those defining air quotes capturing words others have said, but in his own voice - naturally in Helvetica Bold font.

In our communication-driven times, the move in hiring Abloh, makes a lot of sense, where he himself is a media personality boasting 1.8m followers on Instagram. But one has to ask if hiring creative directors based on social media followings and designing for hype is sustainable in the long run? Critics and fashion insiders have mixed responses with Stavros Karelis stating "I couldn’t imagine anyone better than Virgil to carry on the legacy that Mr. Kim Jones left” while Style Zeitgeist's founder and editor Eugene Rabkin, responded to the appointment with an article entitled:

Louis Vuitton’s New Appointment Marks an Important Victory for Marketing Hype Over Design.

Abloh’s appointment at the most valuable luxury house in the world confirms that the traditional route in becoming a creative director - based on craft mastery, qualifications, and cultural cache - has vanished. A natural evolution from couturier to artistic director? Perhaps, yet I fear we are approaching a slippery slope, where “success” is based on online social media followings, “creativity” is constrained by short-term hype and “fashion” a short-sighted marketing exercise.

No matter. Who isn’t excited to see this new direction of “Louis Vuitton”?

Some are thieves.

First off- Applause! to all of the fashion week survivors!! It’s been one wild month and I think it is safe to say our Fall-Winter 2015/16 appetites have been satisfied (literally in the case of Chanel’s Brasserie Gabrielle!) The runways were filled with remarkable new inspirations for the upcoming season, but upon reflection, what I found most incredible was the hysterical hubbub revolving street style.

Many would sacrifice their right arm - or vintage Birkin- at being snapped by Tommy Ton or Phil Oh and these precious images scattered across Facebook Newsfeeds and online platforms were portrayed in an equal, or I dare say, more prestigious light than the actual runway shows. Perhaps it's our obsession with celebrity and social media, or perhaps we find the individual take on fashion simply more innovative? (…)

Certainly street style can be more relatable, fashion for the real world if you will, and it continues to be that (unless you are Kim Kardashian) high heels are being stuffed into our tote bags waiting their turn for an event, and our true, loyal, no-stumble-no-pain companions are sneakers (trainers).

From accompanying a delicate chiffon dress to completing a jeans and a leather jacket à la Patti Smith situation, sneaks create the ultimate effortless, cool girl look. However - to all Mr. Stan Smiths and Nike Airs, there is a new kid on the block named Some Are Thieves and he might just steal your street cred away.

I first came across Some Are Thieves during Berlin Fashion Week when I passed what looked like a minimalist art exhibition with futuristic shoes positioned with care across/ above/ and next to a white platform.

Finding such unconventional sneakers with precise, modern shaping is rare, and I was pleased to have discovered a brand appearing to kick through the boundaries of this typically athletic footwear market.

To “generate curiosity and create products that require a second look” gives Some Are Thieves footwear a higher purpose, replacing the basic necessity of a shoe into prime examples of wearable art and science - as demonstrated by their newest Fall/ Winter collection, aptly named: “Decoherence”.

Inspired by the Big Bang, the collection draws influence from a calculated beginning of life, translated into scientific phenomena- from polarization to a never ending universe. The ability to harmonize the polar fields of science and art, due to meticulous craftsmanship and precise design, is what differentiates Some Are Thieves from the rest. Having a look at the collection here are my favorite three models. Let me know what you think and visit them and their other incredible shoes at somearethieves.com

Linde:

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What I love about the “Linde” model is the juxtaposition between the precise, linear cuts and the beautifully candid smudge of white. It looks like you purposefully stepped into a tub of paint so you can walk around and leave your footsteps wherever life takes you. Now that’s a footprint I want to leave behind. I also love the high internal heel, which gives us some extra centimeters and that glorious tongue strap which seems to merge two types of sneaker into one.

Space:

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At first glance the Space model is your typical jogging classic, but after having it catch your eye for a closer inspection you notice the melange of texture and the architectural design. I find the combination of suede, hard leather, and the laser cut pattern mingle in a subtle yet striking way resulting in a product which is elegant, but not screaming for attention. Imagine combining the red model with the YSL “Le Smoking” when attending the next after party. How’s that for street style?

Lense:

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Last but not least: Lense. On first glance, I couldn't help but think Kanye West should wear these on his next tour. Here is moonboot meeting R&B and I would say represent the entire Decoherence collection of art meeting science. The pattern of polarization emerging through sculpted leather is captivating and invites the eye to linger and appreciate a new form of athletic and arguably black tie footwear.

I’m so impressed by these guys and I guarantee buyer and blogger alike will look forward to getting their hands on and their feet in the fancy footwear crafted by Some Are Thieves.

Thanks to Some Are Thieves for the product images!

Red.

It tells us to stop. It connotes to warmth. It represents love. One color can communicate an entire scale of emotion from love to hate, and will continue to splash across runways and wardrobes in 2015.

Looking back many seasons, the color red, along with black and white, was one of the first colors used by peoples in the Late Stone Age- perhaps the original trend color! It was extracted from natural pigments found in plants and insects, and was originally used to symbolize various rituals through cave paintings and body paint. The color became essential in various cultures, including ancient Egypt, where it was associated with life, health and victory. It was in Egypt, where color was first used for cosmetic purposes such as reddening the cheeks and lips, to produce a more healthy and beautiful exterior.

With this development of using a color to enhance the self-image, red started to represent different meanings such as wealth and power, worn by members of royalty and aristocracy.

Power, luxury and beauty may be the reasons as to why red is one of the most popular colors in the fashion industry. Brands want to market this concept of a strong beautiful woman, and through lipstick, nail polish, clothing, and accessories like this Karl Lagerfeld backpack, the consumer can become that ideal.

Valentino, whose name is as synonymous with the color red as it is with fashion, states that his intention is to symbolize the “power of femininity”. His choice of color was inspired by its meaning and three key experiences he endured. First, he was at a circus in Barcelona and found that the color dominated the scene and reflected both humor and tremendous sadness. Second, he was enchanted by a red costumed socialite at an Opera where he reminisces:

“Women usually prefer to wear black at events because it makes them feel safe, however, if there’s one woman wearing red, she will inevitably be the eye-catcher of the evening. It’s as though the room is suddenly illuminated- simply perfect for a grand-entrance”.

Finally, he was inspired by his dear friend Diane Vreeland who embodied the powerful, elegant woman.

While his pieces have withstood generations, only a very small fraction have been lucky enough to wear one of his masterpieces. Essentially, Valentino combined all meaning, emotion, and aesthetic into his clothing. Today, being this powerful, fearless woman is is what we all want to be, no?

I truly believe that fashion is a reflection of society.  Unfortunately, women are continuously being undermined as “objects” in the media, referred as derogatory terms in songs, and expected to be size 0 from a very young age. This exploitation and terrible image must be stopped and now more than ever is it vital to live up to Valentino’s legacy and be powerful women. Possibly through the everlasting color of red.

Have a wonderful weekend! :)